One thing I hear a lot from clients during the cold winter months is that their skin feels really dry and they want a thicker moisturizer. Dry skin is very common this time of year but piling on a thicker moisturizer isn’t going to help like most think it will. Let’s talk about a very common moisturizer misconception.
I’m going to use an analogy of a raisin and a grape. Think of a skin cell like a grape. When it is hydrated and healthy it has a nice glow to it and its plump and smooth. But if you were to dehydrate it, aka remove the water, it shrivels into a raisin. When skin cells lack water your skin will appear crepey and you will notice every little imperfection. To get your skin from shriveled raisin to plump grape you will need to hydrate the skin at the cellular level. This does not mean using a thicker moistuizer per say. Why not? Because no moisturizer on the market can penetrate the skin enough to get to the cells. It is just too thick a product. It is meant to stay at the surface of the skin.
So how do we hydrate the cells? My favorite combination is using a moisturizing toner (like this one) right after cleansing and then applying a hydrating serum (like this one) to the skin while the toner is still damp. The toner acts as a delivery system to get its own moisturizing ingredients to the cells and it takes the serum along with it. Remember also to drink lots of water and you may even consider using a humidifier in your bedroom while you sleep.
Once the skin cells are rehydrated, now its time to seal it in with a moisturizer. A moisturizer seals in moisture that is already in the skin. You can apply the thickest, creamiest moisturizer on your skin until the cows come home but unless the skin is hydrated from the inside out, you will remain a raisin. Moisturizers lock moisture in the skin and will prevent trans-epidermal water loss. TEWL is when the water in your skin evaporates away, which is common in the winter.
If you live in a particularly dry climate or you fly a lot or have thinner skin, then yes, a thick moisturizer is a great idea because you require an extra-strength sealant. An awesome choice this time of year is Transformation Cream. with its Ceramides and Oils. But if you have combination skin, oily skin, and are prone to breaking out, then you need to be careful on how much you are sealing your skin. Too much and you will trap oil in the skin which can lead to more breakouts. Consider a hydrating gel like Hydration Balance to add water to the skin and then an acne-safe moisturizer like Moisture Balance to lightly seal.
Hope this helps your understanding of skincare and why we use the products we use!